The first thing you see after passing the 10-foot doors is a towering, climate-controlled wine rack, and the rest of this upscale Brazilian churrascaria (i.e., steakhouse) is on a similarly grand scale. The scene is one of constant yet unhurried activity as everyone goes about their business--which is pampering the customers. The variety and excellence of ingredients put Fogo de Chao head and shoulders above other establishments; it offers multiple wonders, including the bountiful salad bar and such hot dishes as polenta and fried bananas. A parade of meat begins as soon as you signal your interest--and what a parade it is, enough to stir the heart of any carnivore. Except for a signature dish of filet mignon seasoned with garlic and peppers, all the meat is patted with sea salt and left to develop its own flavor as it turns by the aromatic wood fire. The variety of tastes and textures among top round, rib meat, and filet mignon is sufficiently different that it's hard to believe they're all from the same critter.