On Fire

On Fire. River North gets a taste of Brazil. Carnivores rejoice: Brazilian cowboys have hit town. Fully outfitted gauchos are now wielding giant skewers of juicy grilled meats in the dining room of Fogo de Chao, downtown's hottest new dining spot. Fogo de Chao literally means "fire on the ground," and the Sao Paulo-based family-owned chain of restaurants developed during a time when Brazilian cowboys gathered around a fire to roast the evening's meal. In recent years, the concept has expanded across the U.S., with restaurants in Dallas, Houston, Atlanta and now here in Chicago. The idea is simple: Each guest receives a two-sided chip, with the green side meaning "bring it on," and the red side meaning "taking a break." As gauchos react accordingly, arriving at the table with hot skewers of perfectly roasted meats, the result is an all-you-can-eat festival for the senses. Choices include bacon-wrapped chicken breast, seared lamb chops, rump steak rubbed with smashed garlic, rock-salted top sirloin, black pepper-laden sausages--15 different cuts in all--and a gourmet salad bar with options like marinated portobellas, Waldorf salad, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and wood-roasted peppers. And just when you think you've had enough, the tempting papaya cream makes you reconsider. This signature dessert is a smooth blend of ripe papayas, vanilla ice cream and creme de cassis, a perfect quencher to your "fire on the ground" experience.