Sleek Fogo de Chao

Combine a classy buffet with a steak house and what do you get? A churrascaria--apparently Portuguese for meat storm. At sleek Fogo de Chao, open-flame pit-roasted meats are the stars, but the salad bar is a feast in itself, packed with 30 items from mozzarella balls to smoked salmon. Dinner also comes with platters of fried polenta, mashed potatoes, and fried bananas, as well as the irresistible cheese puffs called pao de queijo. When you are ready, turn the cardboard chip by your plate from red to green side up and brace yourself. Men in gaucho garb appear instantly, brandishing skewers of 15 kinds of meats to carve tableside as long as you can stand it...Best are filet mignon with bacon, rump steak, beef and pork ribs, leg of lamb, and linguica. Finish with soothing papaya cream. South American cocktails and wines.